Irrigation Season Reset: Backflow Testing, Controller Schedules, and Hidden Yard Leaks
Spring flips the switch on Boise/Meridian lawns—and on a thousand tiny ways water (and money) can disappear. A smart irrigation reset catches freeze damage, dials in your controller, and confirms your backflow is protecting your drinking water before the first cycle runs.
If you’d like a quick pro tune and test, reach us via Contact. If a zone won’t shut off or water is bubbling up right now, hit Emergency Plumbing for same-day help.
Step 1: Backflow assembly—test it before you water
Your irrigation backflow (PVB, DCVA, or RP) keeps lawn water and yard contaminants from siphoning into the home. After winter, rubber parts get brittle and bodies can hairline crack.
Do this:
- Visually inspect the body and bonnet for splits, corrosion, or weeping.
- Confirm test cocks and ball valves move smoothly (no stuck handles).
- Open the downstream valve slowly and watch for leaks at unions and bonnet.
- Schedule a certified backflow test so you’re compliant and safe (we handle the paperwork).
Free reference: EPA WaterSense outdoor watering basics and backflow info are helpful refreshers (no sign-up required).
Step 2: Controller sanity check (schedule like a pro)
A winter power blip or battery swap can leave your controller on a silly default.
Five-minute setup:
- Set the date/time and rain/freeze sensor if installed.
- Choose days (or an ET/smart schedule) that fit city guidance and plant type.
- Start conservative: rotor heads ~short cycles, drip lines longer but fewer days.
- Use cycle/soak on slopes to prevent runoff (two short cycles instead of one long).
- Turn on seasonal adjust so you can bump run times up/down as temps change.
Smart controller? Make sure Wi-Fi is connected and your local weather station is selected.
Step 3: Zone-by-zone leak hunt (10 minutes, big payoff)
Freeze-thaw is rough on poly pipe, fittings, and valves. Run each zone solo and look for:
- Soggy patches or “greener than green” streaks → underground leak.
- Misting/spray drift → pressure too high; add pressure regulation or adjust nozzles.
- Heads that don’t pop → cracked cases, clogged filters, or low pressure from a line leak.
- Valve boxes with standing water → leaking solenoid/diaphragm or cracked manifold.
Flag issues with lawn paint as you go so fixes are fast.
Step 4: Quick valve isolation (find the hidden break)
If a zone never pressurizes or runs weak:
- Close the master irrigation shutoff.
- Open one valve box at a time.
- Crack the shutoff back open and listen—loudest hiss = closest to the break.
- If the whole manifold floods, the crack is between backflow and manifold.
Not sure? We can pressure test and pinpoint with sonic/line-trace tools—reach [Contact].
Step 5: Drip lines and garden beds (the silent water wasters)
- Replace missing emitters and cap any lines you’re not using this year.
- Flush drip zones at the end cap; grit from winter can clog emitters.
- Check filter/regulator sets—if the gauge pegs high, your drip is getting full pressure and will blow apart.
Step 6: The 2-minute meter test (confirms hidden leaks)
With all fixtures off in the house and irrigation off, watch the water meter’s small leak indicator:
- Still: good.
- Creeping/spinning: hidden leak (could be irrigation or house line).
Now close the irrigation master shutoff and recheck. If the indicator stops, the leak is in the yard system; if not, it’s house-side—call Emergency Plumbing if flow is heavy.
Step 7: Pressure matters (protect valves & backflow)
High static pressure shreds diaphragms and makes sprays mist. Check a hose bib with a gauge:
- If pressure is excessive, we’ll adjust/replace the PRV, and add pressure-regulating heads or zone PRS as needed.
Spring startup checklist (print this)
☐ Inspect backflow body/bonnet; schedule certified test
☐ Verify controller time/date; enable rain/freeze sensor
☐ Set conservative seasonal schedule; enable cycle/soak on slopes
☐ Run each zone solo; flag soggy spots, misting, stuck heads
☐ Open valve boxes; check for standing water/cracked manifolds
☐ Flush drip lines; replace emitters; confirm regulator/filter health
☐ Do the 2-minute meter test for hidden leaks
☐ Gauge home pressure; set PRV; consider PRS heads
☐ Replace any damaged risers, nozzles, or valves before first full run
Common post-freeze failures (and the smart fix)
- Split backflow bonnet: Replace bonnet/seat kit or full body; retest.
- Cracked PVC manifold: Rebuild with unions so the next repair takes minutes.
- Buried poly nicked by aeration: Poly coupling repair; add a shallow warning tape.
- Valve that won’t close fully: New diaphragm or full valve swap; clean grit from solenoid port.
FAQs
Do I have to test my backflow every year?
Annual testing is the standard in most places—it verifies the check valves actually seal. We perform the test and submit forms for you.
My controller lost all programs—why?
Dead backup battery or a brief outage. Replace the battery, then re-enter programs and enable the rain/freeze sensor.
When should I call it “urgent”?
If the meter spins with irrigation shut off, if a zone won’t stop running, or if you see water near the foundation—go to Emergency Plumbing.
Helpful free resources
- EPA WaterSense—Outdoor Water Use: Tips for efficient scheduling and irrigation basics.
- Irrigation Association—Homeowner Resources: Glossaries and best practices for heads, valves, and controllers.